Education

‘Sun damage’, once a vague and oft-misunderstood term has become a part of the commonplace language of skin care. 

Uneven pigmentation (which look like freckles), dilated capillaries (which appear as redness in the skin) and a leathery appearance and texture are the mainstays of sun damaged skin.  

One thing I find is that as people start noticing these changes in their skin, they want an explanation of what could have caused them to appear. However, sun damage that starts coming to the surface isn’t necessarily triggered by current circumstances; it’s usually the result of years of sun exposure dating back to childhood. 

Exceptions to this rule are areas of pigmentation that arise due to hormonal fluctuations also known as melamsa or pregnancy mask. This type of pigmentation is treatable with topical solutions or professional treatments when the hormonal disruption or change is over. 

There are solutions that will greatly improve the overall tone and appearance of the skin and reverse some of the damage that has been done.

In this series of articles we’ll look at some different products and how they work to treat sun damaged skin.

At Spruce Body Lab we recently hosted a UV education event with Coppertone which involved taking UV photos of people’s skin.  The UV camera literally sees under the skin’s surface to show areas of accumulative sun damage.  While this is a fascinating proposition to me as a Skin Therapist- I wasn’t really surprised to find that  most people feared knowing about the unseen damage beneath their skin.

The concept of wearing sunscreen isn’t new- people are aware of the damaging effects of the sun, but it doesn’t always seem to translate into actions with their skin care routines. When I’m  Face Mapping clients during a skin treatment and asking them about how often they wear sunscreen, more often than not- people confess that they only wear sunscreen if it’s sunny outside or if they know they will be in the sun for long periods of time.  I really do cringe a little when I hear this.

There are also the culprits who use tanning beds, but they cover up their faces or people who are afraid that they are not getting adequate vitamin D if they wear sunscreen. Something I recently learned is that sunscreen only protects our skin from 55% of the free radical inflammation caused by sun exposure. As with all areas of research and development, there will be misinformation and out-dated ideas that can lead to some of the aforementioned approaches to dealing with sun exposure.  The Skin Therapists at Spruce Body Lab make a point of staying up to date and keeping clients informed about new products, ingredients and research.

Something I always educate my clients about is the vital difference between UVA and UVB rays and their effects on the skin. UVB comes through the atmosphere in abundance on sunny days and is responsible for sun burns.  Most sun screens provide very effective protection from UVB rays. UVA rays come through the atmosphere on even the most cloudy days. These rays penetrate deeply into the skin and have been shown to cause DNA damage; they are responsible for the majority of skin aging. Sunscreens won’t effectively block these rays unless they contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and avobenzone.

If you look at protecting your skin in terms of exposure to daylight- it really changes how you think about sun damage.  Let’s say you commute to work for 30 minutes in the morning and at night.  Even with just that 60 minutes of day light exposure you’re taking in 5 hours  of sunlight per week, 20 hours per month etc.  If you look at sun exposure as accumulative throughout your lifetime, it really sinks in how important UV protection is to skin health, no matter what the weather is like outside. 

If there’s one message that I want relay about protecting skin from UV radiation, it’s that you don’t have to have wear a visor, unflattering UV protection clothing or carry around a parasol.  It’s as simple as putting sunscreen on exposed skin every day before you go outside.  It means carrying a small bottle of sunscreen with you in the summer months to reapply when you find yourself outside for longer than you planned.  It’s simple and it’s THE MOST effective tool we have to prevent aging and keep our skin looking it’s best for as long as possible.

We all want the beautiful glow of sun-kissed skin, but we don’t want the consequential sun damage that comes with it. One of major signs of accumulated sun damage is an uneven skin tone. More and more people are looking for ways to treat this condition known as hyper pigmentation.

Scientists have extensively studied the process by which our skin gains its pigment, which is referred to as melanin. They do not yet fully understand why our skin’s melanin can become unevenly distributed with age. On a positive note- there are effective ways to treat sun-induced hyper pigmentation.

One ingredient that has been used to treat hyper pigmentation effectively is hydroquinone. Doctors in North America commonly prescribe hydroquinone. However, it has been banned in most of the world because it has a highly sensitizing effect on the skin. In some cases it can cause contact dermatitis and photosensitivity.

Brightening ingredients are one of the simplest and gentlest ways to treat hyper pigmentation. Licorice, bearberry, mulberry, and vitamin C are examples of the ingredients that prevent the formation of pigmentation. Also, lactic acid in 5% formulation is an alpha hydroxy acid that has been shown to effectively inhibit the enzyme that plays a central role in melanin formation.

In addition to topical applications, professional treatment such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and laser treatments can produce accelerated results. It is best to consult a skin care professional to determine what treatment method is best for you. Results vary and it usually takes at least eight weeks to see visible lightening of the spots. A 75% lightening of the treated areas is considered a good outcome.

The most important thing to remember is that prevention is the key. Always where a sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15- even on a cloudy winter day! Use tinted moisturizers or self-tanners to get that bronzed glow.