Education

A key ingredient to look for in a skin brightening product is Vitamin C.  It helps to build collagen in the skin, it scavenges damaging free radicals and it lightens pigmentation; it plays a very important role in keeping our skin youthful.

The type of vitamin C that is used in  a skin care formulation is actually quite important.  You need to look for a stabilized form otherwise the vitamin C will be oxidized before it gets anywhere near your skin and it won’t give you any result. Oxidized vitamin C may potentially contribute to free radical damage in your skin which is contrary to it’s purpose for the skin. Unmodified vitamin C is very costly but highly effective in boosting collagen synthesis.  It is also very acidic and has an exfoliating effect on the skin, so it’s usually not suitable for sensitive skins.

The most potent and stable derivative of vitamin C for use in skin care is MAP (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate)- which is water soluble, highly effective for collagen synthesis and non-irritating. It tends to be more affordable, however, you just need to look for products that contain a large enough concentration in order to benefit the skin. This ingredient is resistant to oxidation, but it isn’t infallible, so freshness and proper storage are still important. 

So how does vitamin C prevent and lighten pigmentation? Without getting into too much detail- vitamin C inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme which is part of the process of melanin production.  By inhibiting this enzyme the production of melanin is reduced and therefore the pigmentation of the skin is brightened.

So it would seem that you need to take your vitamins externally as well!

MAP 15 Regenerator

Pro-Derm Ultra C 10%

Consumers are continually bombarded with anti-aging products. but truthfully, there is nothing that we can buy that will actually arrest the aging process. However, with the right ingredients we can significantly improve the appearance of our skin, reduce the signs of aging and AGE SMART.

We’re all familiar with the surface characteristics of aging skin: wrinkles, elastosis, uneven pigmentation, dilated capillaries and dehyration.

What’s behind it all?

As we age our skin’s ability to produce new collagen and elastin slows; there is a cross-linking of collagen that occurs which hardens the usually flexible and supportive dermis. Impaired barrier function leads to dehydration. Cell turnover and cell renewal slows; the epidermis thins while the layer of dead skin cells on the surface thickens. Erratic melanin formation and inflammation occur. All these factors comprise what is beneath aging skin.

So how do we slow down this process and take into account the many elements listed above?

By addressing the three biochemical reactions that lead to aging skin.

1. Reactive Oxygen Species: otherwise known as free radicals, these are unstable oxygen molecules generated by UV rays and pollution. They attack and react with stable molecules within skin cells. This causes non-reversible damage to the cell, cross-link collagen and elastin (causes wrinkles) and lessens skin natural ability to repair itself.

antioxidants such as polyphenols from white tea, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP- a highly stable form of Vitamin C), licorice and Vitamin E all work to inactivate or quench free radicals and create stable molecules, preventing damage to the cell.

2. Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzymes (MMPs): these are enzymes that are activated by UV exposure or inflammation which break down proteins such as collagen and elastin and trigger the formation of uneven pigmentation.

peptides, MAP, Rtinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) and powerful plant extracts all help to control the formation of MMPs.

3. Advanced Glycation End-Product (AGEs): The same glucose (sugar) that provides energy for our cells can also react with proteins, including the skin’s collagen. This reaction results in the formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products, which contribute to cross-linking of collagen protein fibers (causes wrinkles), inflammation, inhibited skin cell growth and accelerated aging.

“sugar traps”, soy proteins, glucosamine and specific peptides intercept the sugar, bind to it and prevent sugar from reacting with collagen protein in our skin.

Dermalogica’s new AGE SMART products comprise the necessary factors to intelligently treat aging skin. Try them out at our skin bar and see the results for yourself or book a skin treatment featuring the AGE SMART products for advanced professional results to control the biochemical triggers that lead to skin aging.