Education

Consumers are continually bombarded with anti-aging products. but truthfully, there is nothing that we can buy that will actually arrest the aging process. However, with the right ingredients we can significantly improve the appearance of our skin, reduce the signs of aging and AGE SMART.

We’re all familiar with the surface characteristics of aging skin: wrinkles, elastosis, uneven pigmentation, dilated capillaries and dehyration.

What’s behind it all?

As we age our skin’s ability to produce new collagen and elastin slows; there is a cross-linking of collagen that occurs which hardens the usually flexible and supportive dermis. Impaired barrier function leads to dehydration. Cell turnover and cell renewal slows; the epidermis thins while the layer of dead skin cells on the surface thickens. Erratic melanin formation and inflammation occur. All these factors comprise what is beneath aging skin.

So how do we slow down this process and take into account the many elements listed above?

By addressing the three biochemical reactions that lead to aging skin.

1. Reactive Oxygen Species: otherwise known as free radicals, these are unstable oxygen molecules generated by UV rays and pollution. They attack and react with stable molecules within skin cells. This causes non-reversible damage to the cell, cross-link collagen and elastin (causes wrinkles) and lessens skin natural ability to repair itself.

antioxidants such as polyphenols from white tea, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP- a highly stable form of Vitamin C), licorice and Vitamin E all work to inactivate or quench free radicals and create stable molecules, preventing damage to the cell.

2. Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzymes (MMPs): these are enzymes that are activated by UV exposure or inflammation which break down proteins such as collagen and elastin and trigger the formation of uneven pigmentation.

peptides, MAP, Rtinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) and powerful plant extracts all help to control the formation of MMPs.

3. Advanced Glycation End-Product (AGEs): The same glucose (sugar) that provides energy for our cells can also react with proteins, including the skin’s collagen. This reaction results in the formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products, which contribute to cross-linking of collagen protein fibers (causes wrinkles), inflammation, inhibited skin cell growth and accelerated aging.

“sugar traps”, soy proteins, glucosamine and specific peptides intercept the sugar, bind to it and prevent sugar from reacting with collagen protein in our skin.

Dermalogica’s new AGE SMART products comprise the necessary factors to intelligently treat aging skin. Try them out at our skin bar and see the results for yourself or book a skin treatment featuring the AGE SMART products for advanced professional results to control the biochemical triggers that lead to skin aging.

What is the cause of adult acne?

More than 17 million adults are diagnosed with acne in the US, 50% are woman and 25% are men. In the past decade adult acne has been on the rise; studies indicate that between 40 and 55% of the adult population in the 20-40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin. So why is this skin disorder no longer just a teen skin problem?

Teen vs Adult Acne

Teen acne is primarily found in the t-zone of the face and is largely associated with the hormones related to puberty. Adult acne is usually found on the sides of the face, chin and jaw line, extending onto the neck. The primary aggravating factor leading to adult acne is chronic stress… Our body’s response to stress is to activate the adrenal gland which in turn raises testosterone levels. This hormone triggers an increase in oil production and the result to our skin is the appearance of oily shine and clogged pores.

So we’ve established we’re stressed, then we get break outs. Then we get stressed about the break outs, which leads to more break outs. Another unfortunate side-effect is the bacteria spreading on the skins surface when the breakouts have been improperly extracted, leading to further inflammation, possible scarring and more eruptions.

Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation

Not only are we dealing with more stress, but our skin is aging. With the aging process comes longer healing time- so the break outs can last as long as 5-10 days. There’s also the risk of more scarring as inflammation also accompanies break outs. Our skin sends melanin to the site of inflammation and we’re left with discoloration once the break out has healed.

Effective Treatment- The end of the line for adult acne.

Dermalogica has recently revised their acne products to address the unique factors associated with adult acne. Most acne products are designed for teenage skin, making them too harsh and irritating for adult acne sufferers. This can cause flaking, peeling, excessive dryness and even additional break outs. The MediBac Clearing System takes into account these factors and works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. Regular professional exfoliation and extraction work will help get this difficult skin condition under control Introducing mediBac Clearing products into a skin care regimen will continue to clear and improve the health of the skin.

Get Face Mapped by a Spruce Skin Care expert to see what the best plan of action is for your skin and say good bye to adult acne.

SKIN BRIGHTENING SYSTEM

Balance pigmentation and protect against future discoloration. Three Hydroquinone-free formulas work synergistically to provide a maximum benefit.

We all want the beautiful glow of sun-kissed skin, but we don’t want the consequential sun damage that comes with it. One of major signs of accumulated sun damage is an uneven skin tone. More and more people are looking for ways to treat this condition known as hyper pigmentation.

Scientists have extensively studied the process by which our skin gains its pigment, which is referred to as melanin. They do not yet fully understand why our skin’s melanin can become unevenly distributed with age. On a positive note- there are effective ways to treat sun-induced hyper pigmentation.

One ingredient that has been used to treat hyper pigmentation effectively is hydroquinone. Doctors in North America commonly prescribe hydroquinone. However, it has been banned in most of the world because it has a highly sensitizing effect on the skin. In some cases it can cause contact dermatitis and photosensitivity.

Brightening ingredients are one of the simplest and gentlest ways to treat hyper pigmentation. Licorice, bearberry, mulberry, and vitamin C are examples of the ingredients that prevent the formation of pigmentation. Also, lactic acid in 5% formulation is an alpha hydroxy acid that has been shown to effectively inhibit the enzyme that plays a central role in melanin formation.

In addition to topical applications, professional treatment such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and laser treatments can produce accelerated results. It is best to consult a skin care professional to determine what treatment method is best for you. Results vary and it usually takes at least eight weeks to see visible lightening of the spots. A 75% lightening of the treated areas is considered a good outcome.

The most important thing to remember is that prevention is the key. Always where a sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15- even on a cloudy winter day! Use tinted moisturizers or self-tanners to get that bronzed glow.