Make-up Artist Shu Uemura was a pioneer in cleansing oils, Dermalogica launched Pre Cleanse- to name a few products that are available. Few people would think that cleansing their skin with oil is helpful, especially people with oily/acneic skin.  The amazing thing about these cleansing oils is that they are good for all skin types and conditions- they can even help improve oily/acneic skin types.  So how and why do they work?

It’s quite a simple concept to grasp when you look at it from a chemistry perspective.  Oils are attracted to oils.  So when you massage the cleansing oil into your skin, it’s being attracted deeper into the follicles (pores) in your skin and grabbing onto layers of excess sebum (oil), sunscreen, waterproof make-up, environmental pollutants and residual skin products that build-up during the day.  

It’s great to have these oils deeply cleansing our skin- but how do we remove it without stripping our skin?  With Dermalogica’s Pre Cleanse, a blend of Olive and Kukui Nut oils  have been formulated to be hydrophilic (water-loving). Once water is added to the oils, they are broken down in to a milky emulsion which is easily rinsed off the skin.

A fact that was brought to my attention recently was about how our skin has many functions (nine in total), but what it cannot do is purify itself. I think the importance of cleaning our skin goes by the way-side with the distraction of anti-aging serums, creams and masks.  But the first step to healthy skin, is clean skin.

I’ve put this theory to the test and I’ve had amazing results.  I’ve been double cleansing my skin in the morning and at night with a cleansing oil and a skin specific cleanser. A double cleanse seems to be the only way that I get my skin truly clean.  With one cleanse, it’s too easy to spend a mere 10 seconds rubbing a cleanser around and quickly rinsing it off.  When I wash my skin twice, it takes my 30 second cleanse to two minutes and I get better results. My skin hasn’t felt and looked this good in years. It’s brigher, smoother and I have fewer blackheads and break outs.

If you’re not happy with how your skin is feeling and looking- try a cleansing oil combined with a double cleanse for a month and test it out. If you’re currently using a cleansing oil, has it worked for you? 

  

Dermalogica Pre Cleanse

Today we’re fortunate enough to not only have the benefit of super-fine needles that you barely feel being placed on the skin- but we can get a face lift out of it too!

I’ve experienced this treatment once myself and, let’s face it, needles are not something that most people look forward to. But once I got over the thought of the needles and actually had a treatment, I was pleasantly suprised by the results.

One thing that really stood out for me with this treatment was how relaxed and softened my face looked and felt.  It’s amazing how much tension we hold in our face through repetitive expression and the general stress of everyday life.  For me, this stress shows up in the form of a dull complexion and the deepening of the laugh lines around my mouth.  I’ve also been noticing fine lines popping up in between my brows from frowning.  Cosmetic Acupuncture can address all of these concerns and more.

I know I’m not alone in seeking out ways to prevent these signs of aging without having to inject botox or spends thousands of dollars on laser treatments.  However, the reality is that if you are looking for a more natural approach, it takes a commitment to frequent treatments which can be a hard to fit into a busy lifestyle. A recommended course of treatments for Cosmetic Acupuncture is 12 sessions with regular follow up treatments to maintain results.  The positive spin to this possible negative, is that there are little to no side effects and a slew of side benefits to this ancient practice.

I would love to hear feed back from anyone who’s benefited from Cosmetic Acupuncture.  Please post your comments!

I sometimes take it for granted that whenever I’ve had the slightest ache or pain, I’ve had almost instant access to non-medicinal pain relief, held in the hands of my co-workers. I’ve grown to appreciate the art of massage therapy and how each practitioner takes a variety of techniques from their set of skills to improve the well-being of their patients.  Whether it’s deep tissue work, trigger point realease, myofascial release, or craniosacral therapy- I’ve experienced benefits from each and every treatment modality.

So when one of our massage therapists at Spruce decided to go back to school to become an osteopath, my curiosity was piqued. I really had no idea what osteopathy involved- how would this practice compare to massage therapy?  So I decided to give it a try.

The initial consultation struck me as much more in depth than that of a massage therapy treatment.  I felt a little bit like I was in my doctor’s office and I was providing information that went beyond my immediate muscular discomfort and addressed internal issues that had come up for me over the past year.

What ensued was one of the most relaxing yet lucid treatments I’ve had on a massage table.  There were a variety of techniques employed which I don’t have the expertise to describe; my overall sense from the treatment itself was that my whole body was being cared for- not just my specific muscle groups.

As I spoke with my RMT about the difference between an osteopathic treatment and a massage therapy treatment, the key theme of a holistic approach arose.  Osteopathy is about supporting the body’s ability to heal itself. As a comparison to massage therapy- the treatment’s focus is about getting to the root of why muscles may be pulled out of alignment and addressing that cause. Versus simply manipulating that muscle to go back into place.

The theory makes so much sense to me, especially when you look at issues of chronic pain.  I know that I personally have areas of my body where pain arises periodically on a repetitive basis.  Massage therapy has helped me immensely to relieve this pain and keep it at bay. However, I am very excited about the prospect of a therapy that can re-educate my body so that these chronic musco-skeletal dysfunctions no longer arise.

Before writing about this subject, I did do a little research on-line about osteopathy and found that most information was quite vague. There are a few studies that suggest that osteopathic therapy is a suitable remedy to pain relief with some results sighting that the benefits of this treatment modality last longer than the pain relieving effects of medication.

Osteopathy is a practice that is still in it’s beginning stages.  It will take time for this treatment practice to be appreciated and understood, but I know that from my recent experience- I’m a believer! I won’t be giving up my massages though- the two modalities are complimentary of course!

It’s very important to look at the list of ingredients on a product.  The ingredients are listed by their quantity within the product. The first ingredient is the most abundant last ingredient has the smallest concentration in the formulation.

Some ingredients that should be avoided are:

• mineral oil
• lanolin
• alcohol
• D&C Colorants
• Fragrance
• Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

I’ve seen marked improvements in client’s skin when they’ve moved away from drug-store brand skin care that contained dyes and fragrance.  Some indications that your skin care products are doing more harm than good are the presence of:

• milia: These are characterised as small white, pearl-like lumps under the skin’s surface.  Milia do not come to a head and can be present on the skin for long periods of time.  They’re usually the result of ingredients that are suffocating the skin, such as mineral oil and dyes from make up.
• comedones: While everyone is susceptible to comedones, more commonly known as blackheads, in the oilier regions of their skin, it’s not normal to have patches of them or lots of bumps and collections of blackheads which would be referred to as congestion.  This congestion is commonly caused by the ingredients listed above which do not encourage the skin the function normally, causing impactions of dead skin cells, dirt oil and debris.

Sometimes a simple change in routine can make a massive difference in the health of one’s skin, leading to a smoother, softer and brighter complexion.  It’s best to follow that advice of a Skin Therapist who can Face Map your skin and customize your skin care regime to bring about balance and health.

The concept of wearing sunscreen isn’t new- people are aware of the damaging effects of the sun, but it doesn’t always seem to translate into actions with their skin care routines. When I’m  Face Mapping clients during a skin treatment and asking them about how often they wear sunscreen, more often than not- people confess that they only wear sunscreen if it’s sunny outside or if they know they will be in the sun for long periods of time.  I really do cringe a little when I hear this.

There are also the culprits who use tanning beds, but they cover up their faces or people who are afraid that they are not getting adequate vitamin D if they wear sunscreen. Something I recently learned is that sunscreen only protects our skin from 55% of the free radical inflammation caused by sun exposure. As with all areas of research and development, there will be misinformation and out-dated ideas that can lead to some of the aforementioned approaches to dealing with sun exposure.  The Skin Therapists at Spruce Body Lab make a point of staying up to date and keeping clients informed about new products, ingredients and research.

Something I always educate my clients about is the vital difference between UVA and UVB rays and their effects on the skin. UVB comes through the atmosphere in abundance on sunny days and is responsible for sun burns.  Most sun screens provide very effective protection from UVB rays. UVA rays come through the atmosphere on even the most cloudy days. These rays penetrate deeply into the skin and have been shown to cause DNA damage; they are responsible for the majority of skin aging. Sunscreens won’t effectively block these rays unless they contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and avobenzone.

If you look at protecting your skin in terms of exposure to daylight- it really changes how you think about sun damage.  Let’s say you commute to work for 30 minutes in the morning and at night.  Even with just that 60 minutes of day light exposure you’re taking in 5 hours  of sunlight per week, 20 hours per month etc.  If you look at sun exposure as accumulative throughout your lifetime, it really sinks in how important UV protection is to skin health, no matter what the weather is like outside. 

If there’s one message that I want relay about protecting skin from UV radiation, it’s that you don’t have to have wear a visor, unflattering UV protection clothing or carry around a parasol.  It’s as simple as putting sunscreen on exposed skin every day before you go outside.  It means carrying a small bottle of sunscreen with you in the summer months to reapply when you find yourself outside for longer than you planned.  It’s simple and it’s THE MOST effective tool we have to prevent aging and keep our skin looking it’s best for as long as possible.

It’s unfortunate to think of caring for the environment as a trend, but it seems we need reminding and a little social pressure to keep up with being green. I personally haven’t purchased a fashionable tote for my shopping yet, but I have found myself making extra effort recently to remove the little piece of plastic from kleenex boxes before I recycle them, or re-use paper bags and fabric totes for shopping.  

Part of our focus here at Spruce Body Lab has been finding ways to lessen our impact on the environment. As a Vancouver spa, we feel that we want to reflect West Coast values and provide our clients with the best massage therapy and skin care treatments available.  Our first priority was to work with skin care products with minimal packaging made of recyclable materials and ingredients that are as natural and effective as possible.

The next stage of our journey to become a greener company was to find a resource for recyclable plastic cups. Up until recently, we were on a bit of a recycling zeal and putting all of our plastic cups, which were made or number 5 plastic, into the recycling bin. Apparently our attempt to be good to the environment was all for naught as the City of Vancouver only accepts number 1 and 2 plastics.

I found this perplexing- why wouldn’t a city that is known for it’s “green” bent, make it easier for people to recycle?  With a little research into this, I discovered that the numbers on plastics signify the type of plastic material used to construct the container. Number 1 and 2 plastics are the easiest to recycle and have many uses as post-recycled material.  The higher numbers such as 5 and 7 are harder to recycle and have fewer uses as post-consumer materials. 

Once we realized that the cups we were taking the time to sort and recycle were just heading to the land fill, it took a few months to find a supplier for recyclable cups. The hard work has paid off because, not only did we find a resource for bio-degradeable cups made of corn-based plastic, we are also working with the same company to supply Spruce Body Lab with recycled paper materials and environmentally friendly cleaning supplies. 

It is a happy ending for our “going green” dilemma.

It’s important to remember that as consumers, we play a vital role in patronizing “green” companies and demanding products that have a smaller foot print on the environment. Let’s all do our part!

On that note- Happy recycling!

The term “non-invasive cosmetic procedure” seems to have become an everyday term over the past few years.  Tune into your daily talk show and you’re bound to see a makeover segment where someone is being lasered, peeled and injected. 

As a Vancouver Spa integrating medical grade procedures with traditional spa treatments, Spruce Body Lab has recently expanded it’s menu of services to include fillers as demand for injectables has increased.

For the average consumer fillers and Botox® have become more accessible and  with continued improvements in procedures and products the results have gotten better and are lasting longer. 

For example- Juvederm, a commonly used hyaluronic acid filler, has now been approved by the FDA to last for up to one year.  

There are many different brands of HA fillers on the market- all competing for consumer dollars.  The trend is towards creating a smoother product with less side effects such as bruising and swelling, or post-treatment lumps and bumps.  

In it’s natural form, hyaluronic acid is a liquid substance which is found to naturally occur in the skin.  It’s main function is to maintain skin volume and hydration as it holds 1000 times it’s own weight in water.  If it was to be injected in it’s natural form it would be absorbed by our bodies in about 12 hours.  Facial fillers last longer in the skin through a process called cross-linking which chemically binds the individual chains of the acid. This differentiation prevents it’s rapid break down.

Do you need both Botox® and Facial Fillers?

Botox® and fillers differ in the type of wrinkles that they target.  Botox® is used to paralyze the muscles that cause deep wrinkles such as the furrow in the brow; whereas HA fillers address wrinkles that relate to loss of volume in the skin, in areas such as the naso-labial fold (smile lines) and marionette lines around the mouth. It is also used to enhance the lips and fill scars. As a substance it has been shown to increase collagen production and inhibit the break down of existing collagen.

Botox® and facial fillers work well in combination to address the signs of aging, and a consult with a trained professional will help determine whether you can benefit  from one or both.

Consumers are continually bombarded with anti-aging products. but truthfully, there is nothing that we can buy that will actually arrest the aging process. However, with the right ingredients we can significantly improve the appearance of our skin, reduce the signs of aging and AGE SMART.

We’re all familiar with the surface characteristics of aging skin: wrinkles, elastosis, uneven pigmentation, dilated capillaries and dehyration.

What’s behind it all?

As we age our skin’s ability to produce new collagen and elastin slows; there is a cross-linking of collagen that occurs which hardens the usually flexible and supportive dermis. Impaired barrier function leads to dehydration. Cell turnover and cell renewal slows; the epidermis thins while the layer of dead skin cells on the surface thickens. Erratic melanin formation and inflammation occur. All these factors comprise what is beneath aging skin.

So how do we slow down this process and take into account the many elements listed above?

By addressing the three biochemical reactions that lead to aging skin.

1. Reactive Oxygen Species: otherwise known as free radicals, these are unstable oxygen molecules generated by UV rays and pollution. They attack and react with stable molecules within skin cells. This causes non-reversible damage to the cell, cross-link collagen and elastin (causes wrinkles) and lessens skin natural ability to repair itself.

antioxidants such as polyphenols from white tea, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP- a highly stable form of Vitamin C), licorice and Vitamin E all work to inactivate or quench free radicals and create stable molecules, preventing damage to the cell.

2. Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzymes (MMPs): these are enzymes that are activated by UV exposure or inflammation which break down proteins such as collagen and elastin and trigger the formation of uneven pigmentation.

peptides, MAP, Rtinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) and powerful plant extracts all help to control the formation of MMPs.

3. Advanced Glycation End-Product (AGEs): The same glucose (sugar) that provides energy for our cells can also react with proteins, including the skin’s collagen. This reaction results in the formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products, which contribute to cross-linking of collagen protein fibers (causes wrinkles), inflammation, inhibited skin cell growth and accelerated aging.

“sugar traps”, soy proteins, glucosamine and specific peptides intercept the sugar, bind to it and prevent sugar from reacting with collagen protein in our skin.

Dermalogica’s new AGE SMART products comprise the necessary factors to intelligently treat aging skin. Try them out at our skin bar and see the results for yourself or book a skin treatment featuring the AGE SMART products for advanced professional results to control the biochemical triggers that lead to skin aging.

What is the cause of adult acne?

More than 17 million adults are diagnosed with acne in the US, 50% are woman and 25% are men. In the past decade adult acne has been on the rise; studies indicate that between 40 and 55% of the adult population in the 20-40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin. So why is this skin disorder no longer just a teen skin problem?

Teen vs Adult Acne

Teen acne is primarily found in the t-zone of the face and is largely associated with the hormones related to puberty. Adult acne is usually found on the sides of the face, chin and jaw line, extending onto the neck. The primary aggravating factor leading to adult acne is chronic stress… Our body’s response to stress is to activate the adrenal gland which in turn raises testosterone levels. This hormone triggers an increase in oil production and the result to our skin is the appearance of oily shine and clogged pores.

So we’ve established we’re stressed, then we get break outs. Then we get stressed about the break outs, which leads to more break outs. Another unfortunate side-effect is the bacteria spreading on the skins surface when the breakouts have been improperly extracted, leading to further inflammation, possible scarring and more eruptions.

Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation

Not only are we dealing with more stress, but our skin is aging. With the aging process comes longer healing time- so the break outs can last as long as 5-10 days. There’s also the risk of more scarring as inflammation also accompanies break outs. Our skin sends melanin to the site of inflammation and we’re left with discoloration once the break out has healed.

Effective Treatment- The end of the line for adult acne.

Dermalogica has recently revised their acne products to address the unique factors associated with adult acne. Most acne products are designed for teenage skin, making them too harsh and irritating for adult acne sufferers. This can cause flaking, peeling, excessive dryness and even additional break outs. The MediBac Clearing System takes into account these factors and works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. Regular professional exfoliation and extraction work will help get this difficult skin condition under control Introducing mediBac Clearing products into a skin care regimen will continue to clear and improve the health of the skin.

Get Face Mapped by a Spruce Skin Care expert to see what the best plan of action is for your skin and say good bye to adult acne.